How to choose the right windows for your home: a practical 2026 guide

Changing the windows in your home is a decision that weighs on the next thirty to forty years. Getting the material, glass or installer wrong means living for a long time with heat loss, external noise, water infiltration or hardware that gives way. In twelve years working in this sector, I’ve seen the same house end up either sorted or still problematic depending on three or four choices made badly at the quoting stage. This guide summarises what to check before signing, told the way I’d tell it to a client at the first site visit.

1. Why choosing well today matters more than before

Until fifteen years ago, windows were mostly an aesthetic object: they closed the hole in the wall, let light in, and across most of Italy nobody looked too closely at thermal performance. Today the picture has changed: the gas bill isn’t what it was ten years ago, the acoustic comfort people expect has grown, energy efficiency regulations have become binding, and the cost of later removal — if the material doesn’t last — is often worth as much as the window itself. Choosing well today means cutting heat loss in a standard flat by 30-50%, reducing street noise by 10-15 dB, and eliminating maintenance for four to five decades.

There’s also the question of property value: a higher energy rating translates, at the point of sale or letting, into a stronger price. An old window frame is the first thing a surveyor or a future tenant looks at after the heating system.

2. Material: PVC, aluminium, wood or wood-aluminium

The four main families cover practically the whole Italian and Albanian market. It’s worth comparing them not as “good” or “bad” but based on how much insulation, design, maintenance and price matter to you. Let’s go through them in order.

PVC windows

The most widespread choice for value for money in Italian residential building. Modern profiles have 5-6 air chambers, multiple EPDM gaskets, internal galvanised steel reinforcement for structural stability, and allow very low Uw values to be reached even with modest glazing. On the Salamander GreenEvolution 76 and BlueEvolution 82 models we currently manufacture, triple glazing brings this down to Uw 0.9 W/m²K. Average lifespan: 40-50 years with no structural maintenance work — an annual clean with water and neutral detergent is enough. The aesthetic limit is a frame slightly thicker than aluminium, but on the 76 and 82 mm models this is now a marginal issue.

Reliable brands in Europe: Salamander (German, the one we use), Veka, Schüco LivIng, Aluplast, Inoutic, Kommerling. Budget brands from Eastern Europe or Asia often sell at tempting prices but with lead stabilisers in the compound, poorly calibrated air chambers and uncertified hardware.

→ Read more in our guide to PVC windows.

Aluminium windows

For those who want slim frames, large glazed surfaces, contemporary design and metal finishes. Aluminium is practically eternal (50+ years), lends itself to colour customisation in any RAL shade, and with a modern thermal break it almost entirely eliminates the material’s historic insulating weakness. It typically costs 20-30% more than equivalent PVC.

It’s the natural choice for large French doors, lift-and-slide systems (large sliding doors that lift slightly to slide without friction), curtain walls, and replacements in architecturally significant buildings. The LMT Aluminium 70, 71, 91, 92 and 93 systems cover everything from the standard window to the maximum thermal-break system for cold climate zones, with Uw down to 1.1 W/m²K in triple-glazed configurations on deep sections.

→ Read more in our guide to aluminium windows.

Wood windows

Warm aesthetics, excellent thermal and acoustic insulation, a tactile and visual feel that no other material matches. They require periodic maintenance: repainting with stain or varnish every 5-10 years depending on exposure and climate. Cost: typically 30-50% more than PVC. Suited to high-value settings, properties in historic centres where building regulations require wood, villas and rural homes, and interior renovations where aesthetics matter more than price.

Wood-aluminium windows

These combine a wood interior (for aesthetics and insulation) with an aluminium exterior (for resistance to weather, salt air, urban pollution and UV exposure). It’s the most technically complete solution, and also the most expensive: 40-60% more than equivalent PVC. An excellent choice for high-value homes in particularly aggressive coastal or urban settings, or for those who don’t want to give up wood but want zero exterior maintenance.

Summary comparison table

Feature	PVC	Aluminium	Wood	Wood-aluminium
Cost (PVC = 100 reference)	100	120-130	130-150	140-160
Minimum achievable Uw	0.9	1.1	1.0	1.0
Maintenance	Almost none	Almost none	Periodic (5-10 years)	Periodic interior, zero exterior
Average lifespan	40-50 years	50+ years	30-40 years with maintenance	50+ years
Colour customisation	Foil lamination	Unlimited RAL	Wood stain	Combination
Suited to large spans	Yes, up to around 2.4 m	Excellent	Limited	Good
Sustainability	Recyclable	Recyclable, high energy content in production	FSC-certified renewable	Mixed
Typical use cases	Standard residential	Large glazing, contemporary design	High-value, historic centres	High-value + zero maintenance

3. Glass: double or triple, and everything else

Glass is where the real thermal performance is decided. On average, in a window, the glass makes up 70-80% of the total surface area: its contribution to insulation is proportionally much greater than that of the frame.

Double or triple glazing

Double glazing consists of two panes separated by a gas-filled cavity, with a perimeter seal and a spacer (a low-conductivity warm edge spacer in modern models). Triple glazing adds a third, central pane. In climate zone D or above (central-northern Italy, all of Albania) low-emissivity double glazing with argon fill is the sensible minimum. Triple glazing is worthwhile for deep energy retrofits, class A+ homes, climate zones E and F, or when the client wants to maximise comfort regardless of cost.

Argon and krypton gas

An inert gas that conducts less heat than air is inserted between the panes. Argon is the standard: it costs little and noticeably improves the Ug value. Krypton performs better but is much more expensive; it’s mainly used in triple glazing with thin cavities where argon wouldn’t be sufficient. The minimum acceptable fill is 90% gas — below that, performance is lost and after a few years the cavity starts to “breathe”.

Low-emissivity and selective glass

Low-emissivity is a microscopic metallic coating applied to one of the inner panes. It reflects heat emitted by interior spaces, reducing heat loss. It’s the technical minimum today: there’s no point buying glass without a low-emissivity coating.

Selective glass is a variant that lets light in but filters out a significant share of solar energy. It’s useful in warm climate zones or for façades heavily exposed to the south/west, where the risk of summer overheating is high. In climate zones E/F, where you want to maximise free winter solar gain, it may not be the right choice.

Acoustic and safety laminated glass

Laminated glass is made of two or more panes bonded by a PVB (polyvinyl butyral) film. Types:

• Laminated 33.1 (3+3 with a single PVB layer): basic safety, injury prevention.
• Laminated 44.1 (4+4 with a single PVB layer): more resistant, also good acoustically.
• Laminated 44.2 (4+4 with double PVB layer): the acoustic standard for windows on busy roads, reaching Rw 38-42 dB on the laminated glass alone, up to 45 dB across the whole window.
• Anti-intrusion laminated P4A, P5A, P6B (UNI EN 356 standard): increase resistance to impact and to objects passing through.

Indicators to read on the quote

• Ug (W/m²K): thermal transmittance of the glass alone. Low-emissivity double glazing with argon: Ug 1.1. Premium triple glazing: Ug 0.5-0.7. Lower is more insulating.
• g (solar factor, 0-1): how much solar heat passes through the glass. Warm zones need a low g (0.3-0.4); cold zones need a high g (0.5-0.6) to make use of winter solar gain.
• LT (Light Transmission, 0-1): how much visible light passes through the glass. On highly selective glass it can drop below 0.7 and the room noticeably darkens.
• Rw (dB): overall acoustic insulation. For a standard residential setting 32-36 dB is sufficient; on noisy roads, 40+ dB.
• Warm edge spacer: a low-conductivity spacer made of composite material instead of classic aluminium. Reduces the thermal bridge at the edge of the glass.

Reliable glass brands: Saint-Gobain (Climaplus, Stadip, SGG Planitherm ranges), Pilkington (Optifloat, Optitherm, OptiPhon), AGC Glass (Stopray, Stratobel), Guardian (ClimaGuard, LamiGlass). Glass is a commodity where the difference between top brands and unknown ones is less noticeable than with frames, but certifications and traceability matter for incentive applications.

4. Hardware and anti-intrusion classes

The hardware is the closing and movement system of the sash. The handle you see is just the tip of a mechanism that runs along the entire perimeter of the sash and locks at multiple points against the frame. It’s one of the most heavily used parts of the window, running through billions of cycles over its life, and it’s also the first component to fail on poor-quality products.

Reference brands

The reliable brands in the European market are:

• Maco (Austria): leader in residential PVC, Multi-Matic and MT ranges, excellent value for money.
• Roto (Germany): top of the range, NT and NT Designo systems, remarkable robustness.
• GU - Gretsch-Unitas (Germany): strongly present in aluminium, solutions for heavy sashes.
• AGB (Italy, Vicenza): a competitive Italian manufacturer, A40 and Tesi systems.
• Siegenia (Germany): premium on PVC and aluminium, Titan AF systems, excellent on large windows.

On the Salamander profiles we work with regularly, we use Maco Multi-Matic or Roto NT depending on configuration and sash size.

Anti-intrusion classes RC1-RC6

The reference standard is EN 1627. Classes range from RC1 (minimum resistance, attack with a few simple tools for a few minutes) to RC6 (resistance to prolonged attack with professional power tools, bank-vault level).

• RC1: visual deterrence only, discourages the opportunistic burglar.
• RC2: typical level for ground-floor residential, resists 3 minutes of attack with simple tools (screwdriver, pliers, wedge).
• RC3: 5 minutes with more sophisticated tools (crowbar, second screwdriver). Recommended for exposed areas, isolated villas, ground floors in cities with high burglary rates.
• RC4-RC5-RC6: professional levels for offices, jewellers, banks.

Anti-intrusion protection requires coordination between hardware, glass (at least P4A) and frame. An RC2 window has multi-point locking hardware with mushroom-head cams, reinforced strike plates on the frame, anti-shatter laminated glass, and anti-lift hinges.

Tilt-and-turn and hinges

Tilt-and-turn is the mechanism that allows a window to be opened in two ways: classic rotation and tilting from the top for micro-ventilation. It’s standard across all modern European production, but the quality of the mechanics varies widely. Poor hardware, after a few years, causes the sash to creak, drop out of alignment, or jam in an intermediate position.

Anti-lift hinges are standard on most systems above RC2: they prevent the sash from being lifted off its pivots, one of the fastest break-in techniques on non-reinforced windows.

5. Installation to UNI 11673: what it actually means

Installation is where most installers cut corners, and it’s almost always where the window subsequently fails. A quality window installed badly can lose up to 50% of the performance stated on its technical data sheet. In practical terms: you pay for a frame with Uw 1.1 and end up with real-world performance equivalent to Uw 1.6, because all the gain leaks out around the perimeter.

The UNI 11673-1:2017 standard (installation requirements) and UNI 11673-2:2019 (qualified installers) define what “correctly executed installation” means. There are three principles:

1. Internal vapour seal: the inside must be sealed with a controlled-permeability tape, so that vapour produced inside the home doesn’t enter the perimeter joint, where it would condense.
2. Intermediate thermal-acoustic seal: the space between the sub-frame (or wall) and the window frame must be filled with closed-cell expanding polyurethane foam, which provides insulation and airtightness.
3. External seal against water and wind, but breathable: the outside must be sealed with a tape or membrane that blocks water and wind from outside while letting residual vapour escape.

Correct materials

Products used in UNI 11673 installation have well-known reliable brands:

• Closed-cell PUR foams: illbruck FM330, Soudal Soudafoam, RAUEXPAND, Stoneco. The difference from DIY-store foams (open-cell) is huge: open cells absorb moisture, lose insulating performance, and rot over time.
• Internal vapour-seal tapes: Tescon Vana, illbruck ME520, Klober Wallint, Soudal SWS internal.
• External breathable seal tapes: Tescon No.1, illbruck ME220, Klober Permo, Soudal SWS external.
• Multifunction pre-compressed tapes: illbruck Compriband TP650, a single application that performs all three functions at variable thicknesses. Costs more, faster to install, an excellent solution on standard windows.
• Elastic finishing sealants: Soudal Soudaflex, illbruck SP525, Sika Sikaflex. Not for the main seal, only for aesthetic finishing.

Smoke test and post-installation checks

The smoke test is a seal check carried out once installation is complete: the window is closed, smoke is generated inside (or outside, depending on the test), and any leaks from the perimeter joint are observed. It’s a quick test that reveals any flaws in the sealing. On sites under our responsibility we carry out systematic visual checks and smoke tests on request or on high-value sites.

Qualified installers

UNI 11673-2 introduces the qualified installer, someone who has completed specific courses (Knauf Akademie, Soudal, illbruck Academy, Posa Qualità Made in Italy) and passed an exam. Always ask your installer whether they’re qualified under this standard. It’s not just a title: it changes the way the site is set up and managed.

6. Complete security

Security isn’t a single accessory — it’s a system that brings together frame, glass, hardware and installation. The components that really make the difference:

• Laminated 33.1 or 44.1 glass on the inside face as a minimum for ground floor, laminated P4A or P5A for higher-risk areas. Plain float glass shatters into a thousand pieces on impact and leaves the way open.
• Anti-intrusion hardware, at least RC2, on the ground floor. RC3 for isolated villas or shop windows.
• Anti-lift hinges: standard on modern systems, but worth checking. The hinge must resist an attempt to lever the sash out of the frame.
• Reinforced strike plates: the points on the frame where the hardware engages must be nickel-plated steel, not plastic.
• Key-locking handle: locks the internal rotation of the handle, preventing a broken pane from allowing someone to operate the handle from outside by hand.
• Armoured shutters or security roller shutters: slow down access to the window. Extruded aluminium shutters with locked slats, or roller shutters with anti-lift systems.

For a standard ground-floor home in an Italian city, the sensible standard is: RC2 hardware, 33.1 laminated glass inside and low-emissivity glass outside, key-locking handle, aluminium shutters. Move up to RC3 and 44.1 glass for exposed areas or isolated villas.

7. Customisation: colours, finishes, integrated blinds, boxes, shutters

Modern windows can be customised far more than people think. The most requested options:

• RAL colours: on both PVC (laminated foils on the profile) and aluminium (RAL powder coating, effectively unlimited). On PVC the most requested colours are white RAL 9016, anthracite RAL 7016, quartz grey RAL 7039, walnut brown, cherry, light or dark oak. On aluminium, options range from matt black to corten rusted-iron effect.
• Wood-effect finishes: 3D foils that reproduce realistic wood grain on PVC. The latest Salamander generation on BlueEvolution 82 is very convincing, even up close.
• Different-coloured internal and external profiles: white inside plus anthracite outside is a very popular combination in modern residential settings.
• Integrated shutters: wood or PVC panels built into the window frame, darkening the room without needing curtains. Excellent for bedrooms.
• Insulated boxes: the box above the window is often a major thermal bridge. An insulated box (in EPS or PUR with external and internal insulation) reduces heat loss by 60-70%. Essential on deep renovations.
• Integrated shutters/blinds: shutters (in aluminium or wood) can be ordered already coordinated with the window, with precise hinges and anti-intrusion locks. Colour customisation to match the frame.
• Handles: from the basic anodised aluminium model to design finishes in satin brass, bronze, matt black. Even key-locking handles for anti-intrusion hardware come in different aesthetic lines.

8. Tax incentives

Tax incentives on windows change from year to year. Before signing the quote, check the current rates on the official sites:

• ENEA (https://www.enea.it/) for the window ecobonus, technical requirements and how to submit the application
• Agenzia delle Entrate (https://www.agenziaentrate.gov.it/) for the renovation bonus, furniture bonus, invoice discount and credit transfer
• Your accountant for applicability to your specific case, choosing the best instrument and handling the paperwork

Don’t base your purchase decision on rates you heard about months ago: check on the official channels on the day. For a detailed look at the ENEA application, the “talking” bank transfer, documentation and timescales, read our guide to window bonuses 2026.

9. Warranties and contract

The contract is where the promises in the quote become a legal commitment. What to check before signing:

• Manufacturer’s warranty on the profile: 10 years standard on Salamander profiles and other top European brands. Check that it’s transferable if the property is sold.
• Warranty on glass: 5-10 years depending on the brand, with standard exclusions for accidental impact and post-installation modifications.
• Warranty on hardware: 5 years as standard on Maco, Roto, GU, AGB.
• Installation warranty: the manufacturer’s warranty covers the product but not the installation. A separate installation warranty, usually 5 years, covers air-water tightness, alignment and sealing.
• After-sales service: clarify who intervenes in case of problems, within how many days, and at what cost (free intervention under warranty, intervention outside warranty at a stated rate).
• Payment terms: 30-40% deposit, possible progress payment on delivery to site, balance on completed and verified installation. Don’t sign contracts with 100% payment upfront.
• Delivery times: given with a precise date, not vague phrasing (“within a few weeks”). Salamander windows have indicative factory lead times of 4-6 weeks.
• Real references: ask for 2-3 case studies of similar work in your area, ideally ones you can visit or where you can phone the client to ask how it went.

10. Red flags: signs of a bad quote

After twelve years in the sector, I have a blacklist of signs that indicate a supplier to avoid. If you recognise even one of them, it’s worth getting a second quote from someone else.

• A blind quote with no site visit: no serious window supplier prices a job from measurements given over the phone. The site visit is when a technician checks the wall structure, its thickness, the condition of the sub-frame (or whether a new one is needed), the exposure, and any obstacles to installation. Without a site visit, the quote is fiction.
• “Windows at €100/m² all-inclusive” promotions: below €350-400/m² installed the risk is certain: low-cost material, poor hardware, improvised installation, an imprecise invoice that won’t support the bonus application.
• 100% payment upfront: the sound model is a 30-40% deposit, a possible interim instalment on delivery, and the balance on completed installation. Anyone asking for everything up front won’t come back if something goes wrong.
• “Alternative” invoicing: “I’ll give you a discount if you pay cash” is the classic prelude to a job that will forfeit all tax incentives and won’t give you a written warranty.
• No visitable physical premises: companies with no visitable office, no showroom, no VAT number visible on the website, no verifiable Google reviews. The internet has multiplied the number of “window sales consultants” working from home who don’t answer the phone after installation.
• No references: ask for two or three recent local clients. A serious company will share them; if they don’t, it means there aren’t any, or they’re not satisfied.
• No technical data sheet for the window: the quote must state the profile, brand, Uw and Ug values, hardware and glass. A quote that just says “white PVC window” isn’t a quote — it’s a generic sales pitch.
• Pressure to sign immediately: “the price is only valid today” is an aggressive sales technique. A serious supplier gives you time to compare.

11. Practical steps for the purchase process

The full journey, from the idea to a finished home, roughly follows these steps:

1. Define your needs: how many windows, which exposures, which priority (thermal, acoustic, security, aesthetics).
2. Compare quotes: 2-3 quotes from different suppliers, complete with technical data sheet and a site visit.
3. Choose material and configuration: PVC or aluminium, double or triple glazing, hardware, colour.
4. Possible pre-work energy certificate (APE) or site visit by the energy assessor for the incentive application.
5. Sign contract and place order: with defined delivery times.
6. Factory production: 4-6 weeks for standard Salamander systems, 6-10 weeks for aluminium systems or special configurations.
7. Installation on site: 1-3 days for an average flat, including disposal of old windows.
8. Final check: seal testing, hardware check, possible smoke test.
9. Documentation: handover of technical data sheets, invoices, CE markings.
10. Tax paperwork: post-work energy certificate if needed, ENEA submission within 90 days, “talking” bank transfers, ten-year document retention.

12. Frequently asked questions

How long do PVC windows last? Salamander profiles and other top European brands come with a 10-year manufacturer’s warranty and an expected effective lifespan of 40-50 years with minimal maintenance.

Does PVC yellow over time? Modern PVC profiles stabilised with calcium-zinc (no longer lead) have UV treatment that protects them from yellowing for decades. Top brands like Salamander give an explicit warranty on colour.

Is triple glazing worth it in climate zone D? It depends on the context. In a deep renovation targeting class A+, it makes sense. In a normal replacement on an existing flat, low-emissivity double glazing with argon already offers an excellent cost-benefit ratio.

Is aluminium really as cold as people say? Aluminium without a thermal break, yes. All modern aluminium systems (including LMT Aluminium 70, 71, 91, 92, 93) have a polyamide thermal break that fully disconnects the inside from the outside, reaching Uw 1.1-1.3 W/m²K.

Roughly how much does an installed window cost? For a standard home, on serious quotes we’re talking about €350-600/m² for complete residential PVC with UNI 11673 installation, €450-800/m² for aluminium, €500-900/m² for wood-aluminium. Cost varies with size, configuration, glass, colour and hardware.

Can I keep the old sub-frames? Only if they’re stable, aligned and compatible in size with the new window. In many cases it’s better to remove them and replace them with new sub-frames (in treated wood or composite material), because an old sub-frame compromises seals and insulation.

How long does it take to change the windows in a flat? For a standard three-room flat, 1-2 days on site. Factory production takes 4-6 weeks, so from order to finished home is on average 6-8 weeks.

Can windows be installed in winter? Yes. Installation products (foams, tapes, sealants) have minimum application temperatures (generally +5°C) but are designed for year-round sites. Heavy rain or extreme wind is avoided for practical reasons.

What happens if the wall isn’t straight? That’s the norm rather than the exception. A good installer corrects for it on site with shims, custom-sized sub-frames and variable sealing. This is why the initial site visit is essential.

Can I include insect screens at the ordering stage? Yes, insect screens are quoted alongside the window. Options range from the classic vertical roller screen, to the side-folding pleated screen, to the magnetic screen for balconies: we compare them all in the guide to made-to-measure insect screens.

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